• Follow Well Shod, Well Imformed

Categories

NEEDLEWORK

This morning as I trawled through my reader, I discovered fraulines fabulous from Les Mads had the skinny on the new A/W 09/10 Acne collection.

Imelda_acne

Under normal circumstances I’d be all up in Acne’s business over the pom-pom trim. But what caught Imelda’s eye was Acne’s new needle heel, or rather the similarity between Acne’s needle heel and a heel used by Spanish born designer Vincente Rey.

As previously reported by Imelda, last year Rey launched legal action against both Martin Margiela and Roger Vivier over a perceived copyright infringement.

Vincente ray

Vincente Rey TOP, Martin Margiela BOTTOM

Of more interest to the Despotic Queen is how quickly this torturous looking trend is filtering down the fashion chain. Over the past 3 seasons I’ve watched as a number of designers have interrupted the needle heel, including Ungaro, Hussein Chalayan, Camilla Skovgaard and Marc Jacobs.

Far be it for Imelda to advocate a sensible Sally attitude (the higher the heel the closer to God), but not all my Imeldettes doeth have my bunions of steel…so my question to you - is you feelin' it?

IMELDA'S IN DA HOUSE!

Imelda_tmz

According to the grandchitlen, you haven’t ARRIVED until you’ve been TMZ’d

IMELDA – OLDER, ACTIVE & STILL ANGRY AT 80

Imelda’s 80th birthday celebrations were marred by a renewed campaign of baseless recriminations and speculation.

Yesterday, as I distributed rice to those I made poor, the Associated Press were spreading vicious rumours that I was on the verge of becoming a tin shed tyrant.

Imelda nearly broke on her 80th birthday,” screamed the Gulf Times.

WTF! Those AP bitches have been all up in ma grills for years with their poisonous mendacities and gutter journalism. The Times reported ‘Imelda, her hair coifed and cheeks rouged, teared up as she complained she had to withdraw money from her husband's meager war pension to post bail so she could travel to Singapore earlier this month for an eye checkup paid for by her children’.

Imelda_singing

Heres what I think of the AP

For the record, I was in Singapore to have my eyes DID not ‘checked’ and all ma ladies (who’ve had eye jobs) know it takes a good two months before your tear ducts stop the involuntary weeping. As for raiding Ferdi’s (may he RIP) war pension account…how would it look if I paid for my own cosmetic augmentations.

The irony is that, aside from my reoccurring appearances as a special guest before the Presidential Commission for Good Governance, I’ve been keeping my affairs on the down and low. Even the guest list for my party was low key, immediate family, a few friends and the AP, ABC, NBC, FOX, CNN, Perez Hilton and Liz Smith.

Despite yesterday being a celebration of iMElda, I was strong armed into forgiving my dying nemesis Corazon C. Aquino.

In a classic text book Bette Davis move, Corazon rolled out her 12 month long ‘private’ battle with cancer to upstage the Despotic Queen. Seriously…wasn’t Imelda already stripped of her dignity after Aquino railroaded us from power while wearing yellow flats? 

Apparently I haven’t suffered enough for the sins of my husband because with the media on my tail, Aquino admitted herself to hospital…on ma birthday…and then like a swift kick to the touchstone of tyranny, she had the chutzpah to issue a press release. Pah, and they call me wiley. But I’m nothing if not benevolent and I had Yum Yum send her a lovely get-well bouquet of Bleeding Hearts.

The day wasn’t a total haute mess, slipping into my best terno and supported by loved ones, cronies and ego stroking hangers-on we partied like we were living under martial law.

Not all of Imelda’s friends were was able to attend, Mahmoud Ahmadinejad is understandably pre occupied but he did tweet me his well wishes. Radovan Karadzic is tied up in The Hague. Putin and I had a falling out after I suggested his alpha male behavior was masking deep seeded homosexuality and Mugabe’s place in D8 (Despotic 8) is under review after conceding to a power sharing agreement with the Movement for Democratic Change.

So it was left to my old friend and fellow Asian tyrant, Kim Jong il to mark the Despotic Queen’s 80th birthday in style. At the stroke of midnight Kim ordered the North Korean army to launch 8 short-range missiles into the East Sea (off Japan), one missile to celebrate each decade of my life. Unfortunately, Kim is still walking in the shadow of his father and four of the eight misfired and struck the U.N’s World Food Program depositories. Calling to apologise, Kim has assured me that the depositories were empty at the time, as his soldiers had traded the US supplied food for yellow cake. Ah…boys and their toys!

I would have been happy for the day to end with an International incident but it was a call from ‘The Beloved’ aka Nicholas Kirkwood that bought Imelda the most birthday cheer.

Nick-kirkwood Phoning me from Italy where he is juggling his multiple creative directorships and collaborations, the Beloved had me cooing and giggling like an annoying love struck 80 year-old. Promising to do bad things with my bunions I almost passed out with excitement. “I have to go. It looks like Nancy Reagan and her new face are trying to crash my party. Call me tomorrow?” I said hopefully. 

“Check your inbox” he said, his voice dripping with double entendre, “I’ve left you a WORLD EXCLUSIVE deposit”.

SMELLING.SALTS.NOW.

Sure enough my inbox was throbbing with the Beloved’s deposit.

Nicholas-kirkwood_imelda2

Before your despotic eyes I lay down my A/W 09/10 collection. I hope you like what you see” his email read. (For reason's the Despotic Queen won't bore you with, Kirkwood's A/W 09/10 has been under a media embargo. Apart from the images made available to style.com the full collection has never been seen...that is until NOW.)

“I dooooo” I screamed into the open air “I doooo”.

Nicholas-kirkwood_imelda1

Nicholas-kirkwood_imelda3

GET THE LOOK! BUT AT WHAT COST?

Imelda can exclusively reveal that independent footwear designer Camilla Skovgaard has unleashed her lawyers on Australian e-tail/wholesale brand Tony Bianco. What prompted this call to arms? Last week the  London based Skovgaard discovered the Australian brand was reproducing one of her signature designs.

Camilla_bianco

spot the difference?

This isn’t the first time IP / Trademark lawyers have sought injunctions, sued or issued Australian footwear brands with cease and desist orders.

In 1995 Doc Martens Pty Ltd took the Figgins Holdings, Bata Shoes, Windsor Smith and Rivers Footwear to court after discovering the companies were manufacturing and retailing a line of Doc Martin inspired footwear called ‘ah! SOUL’. In May 2000 Justice Goldberg ordered the companies to make financial reparations to Doc Martens. 

Source

More recently, lawyers for luxury footwear giant Christian Louboutin issued Sydney based retail/wholesale brand Peep Toe Shoes with a ‘cease and desist’ order after the French based brand discovered Peep Toe Shoes were trading on the brand’s signature red sole treatment.

Skovgaard’s maelstrom began mid last week after Imelda received an email from the PR company representing the Tony Bianco brand titled ‘Sexy Roberto’. Attached were images of the 'Roberto' shoe which bore a uncanny (and not so sexy) resemblance to one of Skovgaard’s signature shoes (seen here on Halle Berry). Accompanying the shoes were additional images, including one of former Supermodel Cindy Crawford and Oscar winning Actress Halle Berry (as seen on Imelda), both wearing the signature Skovgaard shoe.

The email was vaguely worded and read “Cindy and Halle – style maidens at any age. Tony Bianco's shoes: 'ROBERTO' are a gorgeous heel for day or night, casual or glam. And a sure hit for Spring Racing season. In Bronze metallic, Black metallic and Vintage Gold, Roberto retails for $159.95".

Whilst it’s standard practice for PR companies to match celebrity images to High Street looks it is a first (that Imelda knows of) to imply, however vaguely, that the celebrities were wearing the High Street label.

After alerting Skovgaard to the email, I learnt the following day both Tony Bianco and the brands PR company had received formal notification from Skovgaard’s representatives. In the correspondence (which has been sighted by Imelda) they were advised “the appropriate attorneys have been notified” and the Public Relations Company were asked to “immediately cease to publicize this celebrity placement. Furthermore, please contact all press that have been distributed this release with a retraction/noted correction”.

As a recipient of the original email the Despotic Queen has yet to receive any form of correspondence correcting the implied connection. However, I have been in contact with several high placed fashion industry sources and they confirmed an email correcting the misrepresentation had been sent.

Talking to the Despotic Queen, Skovgaard noted, “I understand the industry is full of ‘inspiration’ taken from various sides but that they haven’t even bothered to chance one bit seems downright lazy and shameless.

Camilla

The original

Roberto-Black-Lizard

The copy

This morning I spoke to a representative from the Australian Commonwealth Intellectual Proprieties department (which covers Design Law) and I was advised “To be registrable, a design must be new and distinctive. 'New' means the identical design has not been publicly used in Australia nor has it been published in a document within or outside Australia.

For example, a design would not be considered new if it had been 'published' on the Internet before the date it was filed (or its priority date, whichever is earlier). 

Source

In lay speak this mean’s in order to protect your commercial designs against infringement, designers are required by Australian law to register each design at a cost of $200 (£ 98) per design.

Uncertain if Skovgaard's designs were registered I probed the IP representative for the ‘worst case scenario’. She replied “If the design wasn’t registered then it’s not protected by Australian Design Law”. Offering a small glimmer of hope she went on to say “providing the designer has sufficient evidence, a case could be bought against the brand under Common Law”.

While there are a number of other variables, including investigating IP protection via trade agreements, it would appear that if Skovgaard hasn’t registered her designs, companies like Tony Bianco will continue to infringe, until a lawsuit is bought before the courts. (Imelda would advise all designers to seek additional legal advice – as the history books will tell you, I avoid the law).

While I was corresponding with Skovgaard she made a poignant statement that strongly resonated with the Despotic Queen. “Perhaps they (brands like Bianco) forget that the designers have invested money and years in footwear training in order to learn the craft. When you finally reap the benefit of that hard work someone tries to steal it at first opportunity. It’s disheartening”.

Over the past week I’ve spoken to a number of international designers and they’ve all agreed that the new battleground is trademark / intellectual property infringement.

Sitting around the Palace of Despotism sermonizing won’t change the state of the industry, but with high profile designers like Skovgaard spot lighting the shenanigans on Australia’s High Streets, other independent designers are going to follow her lead…and they aren’t going to be happy with what they see.

As the battle spills out into the court of public opinion and Imelda becomes ‘despotica non grata’, Australian wholesale/retailer's should note, I'll be looking EXTRA closely next time you 'get the look'. 

More information on how to register and protect your designs (in the Australian market) can be found HERE. 

THE PRIDE OF PARIS - PART DEUX

RAF SIMONS

Raf-simons_imelda


COMME DES GARCON

Comme-des-garcons_imelda
MARTIN MARGIELA

Martin-margiela-Imelda

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

Ann-demeulemeester_imelda

DRIES VAN NOTEN

Dries-van-noten_imelda

THE PRIDE OF PARIS - PART ONE

I’d like to believe that nothing gets in the way of Imelda giving good shoe, but over the past 3 days that hasn’t been the case.

When you’re in the eye of a cultural shit storm (and it's chewing up your inbound traffic) an astute blogger once told me, to pull back, horde your content like Edie Beale and wait for it to pass. Since menswear is already under reported and with people glued to news-a-tainment sites E and TMZ, why (as Wendy Brands tweeted) “waste the content”.

Despite designers presenting some of the most exciting footwear innovations seen by the Despotic Queen for several seasons, no one (except maybe my dire hard Imeldette’s) was interested in reading about men’s footwear. I might be a couple of days late with my rent but I'm always good for it...as you're about to discover. 

DIOR HOMME
Dior-homme_Imelda

LANVIN

Lanvin_Imelda

PAUL SMITH

Paul-smith-imelda

MIHARA YUSHIRO

Mihara-Yushiro_Imelda

JOHN GALLIANO

John-Galliano_Imelda

I’m trying not to short shrift chu but with about 20 collections to churn through, I’m going to pull out my highlights and then comeback with for the wrap post.

RICK OOOOOH-WENS

Rick Owen’s post-apocalyptic esthetic is a dark and complex beast that in Imelda’s opinion, is easier to digest as separates. I realize that suggestion will have most die-hards fanning themselves in disbelief. I prefer to see it as an opportunity to better understand the direction Owen is taking us.

To be honest, I find the American designers footwear can be challenging. This season Owens blasted his collection to life with a bold and aggressive laceless leather ankle boot. If this were any other designer, I’d say the footwear esthetic was strongly influenced by early 1990’s British Knights hi-tops (albeit genetically modified), but this is Rick Owens and he’s a genuine innovator that shouldn’t be under estimated. With so many chunky hi-top sneakers hitting the runway this season, Owens' hi-top hybrids dramatically charged into Paris, there was nothing subtle about these boots; everything from the tongue to the zipper detail was exaggerated. He might only appeal to a niche market but be assured other designers will be influenced by what he presented.

It’s obvious that Imelda isn’t fluent in Owen-ese, so for what it’s worth, my moneys on the slick, round toe biker boot in polished leather and charcoal suede. I love a challenging footwear option more than most despots and this was Owens most commercial offering. 

Rick-owens_imelda

Rick-owens_imelda2

OH YES HE IS!

NO! your eyes are not deceiving you, Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz is wearing clogs...wooden ones! 

Last time I checked, wooden clogs were only suitable for horny milk maids and (according to Wikipedia) 'avant-garde' men. But since Imelda utterly adores Elbaz and he is a genius, this time the Despotic Queen will turn a blind eye. However, if I spot ONE clog (Dutch or Swedish - betcha didn't know there was a difference) in September, then it's gloves off!

Alber_clogs

GIVENCHY'S SARTORIAL TRIBUTE TO MICHAEL JACKSON

As reported by The Moment, Riccardo Tisci’ s S/S 10 collection was a “homage to Michael Jackson”. Before you roll your eyes, Tisci had been commissioned by Jackson’s ‘people’ to design (and one would imagine have finished) the costumes for Jackson’s up coming concert dates in London. Should those costumes ever see the light of day, it will be very interesting to see the sartorial direction Tisci was taking pop personality.

Givenchy

Givenchy2
image credit / Hint Magazine

With his S/S 10 collection, Tisci reinforced why Givenchy has fast become the go-to fashion house for footwear innovations. His new aesthetic was a mix of campy gladiators, sportive orthopedic style walking shoes (with Velcro fastenings), hi-tops and slingback dress shoes.

Givenchy_footwear

FEELIN' SPORTY?

After day one, “Paris has confirmed the rumours started in Milan, velcro fastenings are the key micro trend for S/S 10 men’s footwear” tweeted the Despotic Queen two days ago (sorry for the delay in posting....)

Velcro is only a small part of a much bigger sportive inspired trend sweeping through menswear. Issey Miyake, Juun J (below) and Louis Vuitton all presented collections that drew heavily from the late ‘90’s sports trend.

Juun

image credit Dan The Scout

While Jean Paul Gaultier banished the dress shoe all together sending his sequined tube top and skirt clad models down the catwalk in converse inspired sneakers.

JPG-1

It appears Marc Jacobs and his crack pipe has finally parted company, the Despotic Queen’s (now former) whipping boy tweaked my touchstone of tyranny until I was a barking slobbering haute mess. As I type Yum Yum's greasing up bunions with chicken fat, so that I might squeeze my trotters into a pair of Vuitton's gold round toe, disco delights.

Louis-vuitton1

Your email address:


Powered by FeedBlitz

google

Advertise