PRADA WADES INTO WINTER

I know, I know…my last post was glib, besides I’m more a Heretics Fork kind of Despot.

At Prada the (40’s inspired) block heels were austere but the models remained upright. In an intimate setting, Muccia who was “inspired by clothes for the outdoors, which could be worn by strong, feminine women” sent her models down the carpeted catwalk in thigh high fisherman waders, gum soled open waisted mary-jane’s and one heavily studded affair that seriously looked like an over dressed Thanksgiving turkey enroute to the Folsom Street Fair.

Dominating trends from NY to Milan has been all things fetish (which I first raised in May 08) and cleated soles. Muccia has played to both trends with her cleated sole knee high waders. Since I’m no lover of the great outdoors, the best I (or google) can tell, the sexy suspender detail attached to the top of the boot is a Prada-specific modification (interesting aside – Wiki did tell me that waders are worn by snake handling Pastors who conduct full immersion baptisms).

 

After the men’s collection, I wasn’t overly surprised to discover that Muccia had busted out the bedazzler. As interesting as it was, the studded heel counter fringing (apparently inspired by Trojan helmets) worked best when balanced by the solid block heel and not Nana’s stiletto Bingo heel. Like her Remains of the Day round toes, warm wartime tones dominated Muccia’s colour palette.

Gucci wasn’t the hot mess that I was hoping for as Frida Giannini (mindful of the economic climate?) pulled back and focused the brand’s attention on line and detail (the same can’t be said for the clothing…those shoulders…like enough already). Imelda doesn’t mean to imply it was all Amish and stale bread, Giovanni surprisingly mustered up some of that old Gucci razzle-dazzle.

Others might argue that Giannini played it safe, but Imelda says the devil’s in the detail. The much-maligned (by Imelda) Giannini used zippers to trim rands, contrasting geometric patent in-lays, suede heel counters and slickly trimmed platforms. Yes, they were dangerously high, and other than my Thai-Thai beautician I don’t know anyone who wears thigh high boots.

I couldn’t sign-off on Gucci without mentioning, as Frockwriter reported yesterday, that during castings Giannini’s WMM (Weapons of Mass Mutilation) took Australian model Abbey Lee Kershaw out of contention for the show and the rest of the season…READ THE FULL STORY HERE

For the last two seasons Imelda has taken Christopher Bailey to task for the lack of variety in his shoe collections. This season The Despotic Queen has no cause to cattle prod the Burberry designer because Bailey delivered his most satisfying collection to date.

In the Burberry press release Bailey stated his theme for the collection was “Uniting the past and the present using Burberry iconography with a collection that reflects our strengths, softness and contradictions.”

Bailey referenced elements from two of the season’s emerging trends (the hiker and the biker) and married them into a delicious suede boot in moulded rubber with a cleated sole. Interestingly, Burberry’s official press release mentioned nothing of the hiker trend, preferring to focus on the biker aspect – nothing more than the buckle trim. Continuing with the theme of moulded rubber, the Brit has also bought into the desert boot trend, albeit on wedged platform.

The late 90’s feel to the collection can be attributed solely (awful pun) to Bailey’s use of the cleated sole. Not since Robert Clergerie and Walter Stieger were at their creative zeniths has this sole treatment been so prevalent on the catwalk.

Another new trend emerging from Milan is the Chopine platform. Two hours after Bailey presented his wooden version for Burberry, Raf Simons presented a sleek futuristic chopine at Jil Sander. Bailey rounded out his trend focused collection with hand woven strapping and heavy lace up detail.

Don't forget to tune in at 11.30pm (AEST) / 1.30pm (CET) as Frockwriter and the Despotic Queen (aka Despotic Frocks) blog live from the Dolce and Gabbana parade.

Comments

[Bostonista]

the Prada shoes remind me of peacocks.

[Rebecca]

Lusting after the 'turkey' shoes

[Thom]

Warriors...come out and play...

[adreamer]

prada baby... so beautiful.
its a miracle no one stacked it.
but thats probably thanks to the carpet.

[Angela See Angela Blog]

I love the Gucci, it was simple and classic! The thigh-hi's pretty hot, but I would have to cut off 3/4 of my calf and thigh to fit in them.
Ah yes, and I've started following you on twitter!

XXASAB

[enc]

Hmmm, Prada usually hits it every season, but somehow, I wonder if that boot garter will take off.

[Sal]

I'm with enc - the wader look is a bit alarming. Happy to see some chunkier heels and wedges sprinkled throughout, though.

[Porcelain Blonde]

Hmmmn, I'm surprised to find I don't like much here at all, boo.

I usually love Prada but this wasn't for me.

I did like some of the Burberry though and could see the late 90's in them for sure.

A few of the Gucci's were at least a little sexy...and I feel you on the shoulders. I bet Joan Collins is buying up big! :) xxx

[childrens winter boots]

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