BEST IN SHOE - THE RAFW VERDICT

On more than one occasion last week, the Despotic Queen encountered the influence of Martin Margiela. If it wasn’t Margiela it was Marni or YSL or worse. Going into RAFW I knew the pickings would be slim, so I was pleasantly surprised by the number of designers who have thrown caution (and a few bucks) to the wind and started manufacturing their own shoes.

Such was the Despotic Queen’s excitement when I saw Antipodium’s kraftwerk inspired platforms that I nearly puddled my petty pants. Rushing backstage, I was bitterly disappointed to discover this mid 90’s goodness was in fact vintage. Still, Antipodium deserves an honourable mention for raising the bar (and my skirt).

Last week Ellery was always going to be the one to watch.  Since launching her own label the Sydney based designer has been consistently giving ‘good shoe’. Three seasons down and I’m always excited by Kym’s clearly defined footwear aesthetic. But in a surprise upset it was Melbourne’s ‘TV’ with their ‘awkward military sandal’ that stole the week.

Backstage I spoke with sandals designer, Adam Wood a creative consultant to TV's Monika Tywanek and Ingrid Verner. Wood revealed his influence was a “mix between Victorian and 90’s style”. “The block heel and square toe are definite 90’s influences and the kiltie trim was a reference to Victorian war time era”

Speaking to Monika Tywanek (one half of TV) she explained “Adam worked closely with a friend of ours, Jess. He owns a company in Melbourne called Doc Cobbler and he makes orthopaedic shoes, he’s branching out, but orthopaedic shoes are his bread and butter.” Tywanek went on to explain “They’re all individually handmade in Australia. It’s amazing being able to work with local artisans, they’re so passionate about what they do and they’re so eccentric. They have this wealth of knowledge and it’s amazing that we can tap into it.” TV have plans to retail the shoes and were hoping they’d be picked up by Incu and Dilatant of Perth.

I think it’s interesting to note how Ellery’s slick lipstick heeled platforms (SEEN HERE) capture Sydney’s fast paced sexy lifestyle. While TV embody the directional, individualistic spirit of Melbourne. But for the Despotic Queen it came down to one question ‘which designer trended forward?’

Square, block and dare I say even a little ugly, TV’s awkward military inspired lace up sandal (with removable kiltie) was the one shoe I was hoping to find this week. I love a platform as much as the next despot but in a sea of Margiela and YSL knock-off’s TV gave me a small glimmer of hope, that real world-class footwear design is still alive and being manufactured on home soil. To my Imeldettes, may I introduce to you TV – the great hope of Australian footwear. Go forth and buy.

The best of the rest - after the jump

KATE SYLVESTER

Manning Cartell - "Mesh uppers with contrasting heel treatments"

ZAMBESI

KIRRILY JOHNSTON

Comments

[Kat George]

TV shoes = Ann D's naughty little sister...

[emmanuelle]

actually kind of annoying that its such a rip of ann d. yeah nice, and yeah different to what we have seen from other labels, but too similar to ann D for me to not cringe.

[Imelda Matt]

Emmanuelle - I'm not sure if you've seen the original but the only similarity between Ann D and TV was the lacing. Perhaps I should have pointed this out but I didn't feel the need because this shoe stood on it's own design merits.

May I also suggest you check out this post http://www.imelda.com.au/well_shod_well_imformed/2009/01/imeldas-all-tied-up.html for a more comprehensive look at the lacing trend.

The Ann D shoe has wide lacing with a round toe and stacked heel. While the TV shoe has tight lacing, a square toe, covered pinched block heel and a kiltie trim.

[emmanuelle]

i own the ann d boots....honestly, theres not a huge amount of difference. don't get me wrong, this tv shoe i would wear in a second. it's just...lacing, cutout heel and peep toe. so similar is all im saying, and for someone who has had a fair bit of press over here right now (ann d)....over exposed.