Well Shod, Well Imformed

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN – THE LAST EMPEROR

Marking the end of the official mourning period for the late Lee McQueen, this morning’s sombre presentation of the British designer’s final collection did nothing to assuage the Despotic Queen’s grief.

At the time of Lee’s passing, Imelda, prone to hysterics, decided that bemoaning on the information super highway was counter productive, thus I choose celebrate the designer’s life with a retrospective of his past 14 collections…then I made like Oprah and ate through the grief.

And because denigrating McQueen’s passing with my diabolical ramblings wasn’t necessary, Imelda wasn’t able to draw your attention to the astounding revelation that in 14 seasons, McQueen only once blighted his good name by sending flat shoes down the runway…ONLY ONCE!

This demonstrates that McQueen and HRH the Despotic Queen of Shoes were united by their mutual abhorrence (and physical repulsion) of flat shoes and like the maestro, Andre Perugia, Lee’s spirit will live on forever with those designers who know there are women (like Imelda, Victoria Beckham and Daphne Guinness) who would rather eat a bucket of warm foetal matter than ever wear flat shoes.

With his last breath, McQueen again demonstrated his genius with a considered collection of gilded platforms, which contrary to earlier reports were not as extreme as his previous two collections.

Nonetheless, his final collection of mocc spat ankle boots, thigh high boots double strapped above the knee, and beaded ankle cuffs will be a lasting tribute and hugely successful with consumers who want to own a little piece of the fallen star.

 

ALEXANDER McQUEEN - A LIFE OF SHOES 2003-2010

Imelda says, "When the words fail you, slip on a killer pair of stitts and smile."

Alexander McQueen 1969-2010

AUTUMN / WINTER 2003-04

  SPRING / SUMMER 2004

  AUTUMN / WINTER 2004/05

 SPRING / SUMMER 2005

  AUTUMN / WINTER 2005 /06

 SPRING / SUMMER 2006

  AUTUMN / WINTER 2006-07

 SPRING / SUMMER 2007

 AUTUMN / WINTER 2007/08

 SPRING / SUMMER 2008

  AUTUMN / WINTER 2008/09

        SPRING / SUMMER 2009

 
AUTUMN / WINTER 2009/10

SPRING/SUMMER 2010

MCQUEEN’S STILL MY PRINTS CHARMING!

Imelda has a deep appreciation for those designing men’s footwear; it’s a thankless, conundrum-riddled task (made all the harder by my merciless tongue of tyranny)…much like blogging!

In seasons past I’ve turned to my good friend Kim Jong-il to collect his thoughts on the collections, since, as a man (albeit one who wears platform cha-cha heels) and the end consumer, it’s his opinion that designers are interested in. But Kim failed to report for duty (a pressing engagement of sabre rattling) so Imelda’s flying solo this week.

After a sluggish start, days two, three and four presented Yum Yum with ample opportunity to scrap-down Imelda's pantalettes.

At Prada (scroll down), Muicca came close to erasing the diabolical after-taste of last seasons ‘ghet-toe’ horror with one of the most directional collections of the week.

The oversized kiltie trim on Prada’s 70’s inspired square toe loafers was a simple yet ingenious masterstroke and is likely to be one of the key trends bug-eyed mid-market knock-off merchants will race into production.

 

image credit Sonny Vandevelde

Polished leather was the perfect complement to Prada’s contrasting colour palette, which from the cheap seats gave the burnt honey toned kilties the illusion of lava spilling out over the shoes.

Gucci’s Frida Giannini (scroll down) was another designer who presented the kiltie trim. Differing from Prada’s 70’s offering, Giannini’s kiltie was attached to a heavily brogued, tassel trimmed classic loafer silhouette.

Updating Gucci’s iconic snaffle trimmed loafers in winter tones of greens, browns and beige and combining them with cropped trousers, Giannini’s collection wreaked of old-money luxury with a hint Tom Ford.

The Versace-trons were piped into nut cracking futuristic leathers and commanded to navigate Donatella’s matrix in plum, black and grey round-toe patent boots.

Versace’s cyber conscripts confirmed the monk strap as a key trend for men’s A/W footwear. Multi buckle closures were concealed while Velcro was used to maintain the clean minimalist feel against the brothel creeper soles.

According to WWD, Alexander McQueen’s highly anticipated collection was a riot of ideas but lacked the Brit’s usual showmanship. Imelda could have cared less, because if anyone can unleash my womanly moisture, it’s Alexander McQueen.

Wrapped in plastic (my love essence will stain even the most resistant shagpile) I ogled and then coveted the heady collection of muted photo print suits, jackets and separates.

Mixing the old (laser cut oxfords) with the new (photo printed leather ankle boots on moulded rubber soles) McQueen’s footwear wasn’t the brilliance of seasons past but it anchored the collection and was the most accessible aspect to it. 

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

VERSACE

 

DSQUARED2

 

FRAME-BY-FRAME

If your ears (and sanity) can withstand the soulless beat (of the dubbed muzac) and looped whisper “faaaashiooontiiimes”, then here’s a selection of videos from day three of Milan Fashion Week including, Gucci, Versace, John Richmond, Enrico Coveri and Byblos…’member, Imelda did warn you.

For more 'Faaaashiooon Tiiimes video see HERE

UPDATED

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

DEFENDING THE FAITH

“I’d have loved to be a fly on the wall when those copycat companies saw the program” screamed Imelda’s Footwear Designer of ’08 and the designer at the center of the 'Fashion Fake' controversy, Camilla Skovgaard.

Of course, Skovgaard was referring to Wednesday night’s expose ‘Fashion Fakes’ which aired on Australia’s highest rating current affairs program Today Tonight.

The program exposed Australia’s pitiful copyright protection laws that according to Intellectual property-specialist lawyer, David Stewart, are “embarrassing” for an OECD country. Steward also noting Australia has been recognized as a “safe haven for plagiarists for quite some time”

The little known cost of these laws is that they are directly responsible for the quagmire of mediocrity that is the Australian Footwear industry. Why support (or even attempt to support) original design when the law allows such unbridled plagiarism?

Is the margin for error that slim that not ONE mid market retailer is prepared to take a chance and offer the consumer something other a cheap designer knockoff?

Until the Federal Government changes these laws, footwear brands like those named (Tony Bianco, Wittner and Siren Shoes) will continue to profit from the creative output of designers like Camilla Skovgaard, Nicholas Kirkwood, Alexanders’ Wang & McQueen, and Marc Jacobs.

However, as Stewart noted “This affects Australian fashion designers as much as it affects people overseas”

The foundations for last night’s expose were laid several months ago after Imelda revealed Tony Bianco Footwear had produced a one-for-one knock-off of Camilla Skovgaard’s signature shoe and then circulated images of international celebrities (wearing the Skovgaard original) to promote their product. (Read HERE)

Incensed that I had the audacity to call out their shady practices, Tony Bianco Footwear then ‘unleashed’ the law firm of Davies Collison Cave demanding a full retraction.

OH the irony!

True I was surprised to find myself at the center of a Despot and Goliath battle but nothing could catch this old warhorse off guard. Standing in the wings was friend to the House of Despotism, my blogging colleague and Australia’s most respected Fashion Journalist, Patty ‘Frockwriter’ Huntington.

Initially I enjoyed the wicked irony that after years off satirising (the real) Imelda’s legal woes here I was entangled in my own legal worries. However, as the emails became more dogged the irony became less amusing and my heart of darkness started beating with the rage of a 1000 hurricanes.

Their primary (and only valid) objection was my assertion that TBF had infringed Skovgaard’s copyright.

As was pointed out (and was then reiterated on TT by Stewart) unless a designer registers EVERY SINGLE design, then under the current Australian law their designs are not protected.

Stewart stated “if you're an international fashion designer based in Milan or based in Rome or based in London and you're not aware of this particular quirk to the way in which Australian law works, then you've got no basis on which to try to protect the creative output of your efforts," and therefore because Skovgaard didn’t register her design(s) one cannot claim ‘copyright infringed’ – the moral of the story, you can report a company is producing one-to-one knockoffs but not that they are infringing copyright (unless the product has been registered).

Got it?

As you would expect, Skovgaard finds the situation disheartening and after viewing the expose said she hoped Australia “will get a similar fundamental design right protection to the EU, first 3 years protection obligatory”

Here’s when things got all haute n’ hairy.

During the course of her investigation, Huntington discovered TBF were selling a second Skovgaard knockoff (the Sportsgirl and Siren knockoffs were discovered at a later date). “Quelle Horreur” fumed the Despotic Queen.

It was also discovered that despite being freely available (at retail) the original knockoff ‘Sexy Roberto’ had been removed from all the company’s consumer communications (eg website and Facebook page).

We then noted a short time after Huntington contacted Bianco representatives (I believe to obtain a response) the second shoe was mysteriously removed from the company’s official website.

Imelda asks since TBF felt it was necessary to take legal action against my allegations of ‘continued infringement’ then why remove the shoes in question from their website?

I’m confused, especially after Huntington contacted a Tony Bianco retail store and confirmed ‘Sexy Roberto’ was for sale and stock levels were plentiful. Imelda then made direct contacted with a number of independent Sydney based footwear retailers who all confirmed full sizes, runs and colourways of 'Sexy Roberto'.

With stock (and a lot of it) in stores, what plausible reason can TBF offer for removing theses shoes from the company’s website?

Is this, as the cheeky Madonna grab implied, simply a case of mid market footwear brands wanting to have “their cake and eat it”?

I’ve taken a very principled stand on the issue of designer knockoffs, a stance that poses losses both professionally and financially. In fact, when I received the first email (from Davies Collison Cave) I was told “change it” ('it' being my original post) and that if I held my ground I'd be ‘burning my bridges’.

Well, I don’t want to risk my life crossing a bridge made out of rotten planks. I’d rather just burn the fucker to the ground and start building a new one.

While the big luxury houses are armed with high priced lawyers it’s independent footwear designers who it seems are at the greatest risk so it’s time to play the ‘name and shame’ game.

What’s that you say Imelda? WAR?

YES it’s WAR and it’s to be the Despotic Queen’s greatest battle to-date, The War Against Knockoffs.

So my beloved Imeldettes, I’m introducing a new weekly post creatively titled ‘Imelda’s War Against Knockoffs’ and I need your help.

You’ll need to be alert and alarmed.

My inbox is groaning under the weight of all your ‘alert’ emails and keep ‘em coming. If you spot a suspicious looking shoe then call 1800 IMELDA, but if you can’t get through then email (editor@imelda.com.au) or TWEET me a link and let me know which designer you believe has been knocked off and I’ll unleash the full force of the Despotic Queen.

And to kick off this new weekly post what better shoes to start with than the shoes profiled on Today Tonight.

Finally, Jennine Tamm Jacob aka The Coveted left a comment that we should all take time to ponder “I think there is a bigger problem at stake here, not just fakes, but the fact that we feel we need them.”