For the past two days the menswear collections have limped down the catwalk/information super highway (kudos Burberry, Prada, Dolce e Gabanna) in what could best be described as a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it type of affair. Not even a near-catastrophic seating malfunction (at Prada) could inject excitement into the comatose beast that is Milan Men’s Fashion Week!
If
it wasn’t for tomorrow’s Alexander McQueen show the Despotic Queen could
happily snuggle up to a bottle of Advil and wait for Paris. OK! So maybe, just maybe I've already hit the bottle, which is why I'm jumping in two days late...whateva!
Christopher
Bailey’s Inglorious Bastards kicked-off MFW with a blistering collection of trench, parade,
pea, blanket, double breasted, dress, double breasted chesterfield, utility,
cropped military, funnel neck and aviator ‘statement coats / jackets’ that should have had even the
most laissez-faire fashion punter groaning in sartorial ecstasy.
While
Yum Yum wrings out my damp pantalettes and starts sewing brass button epaulettes
onto ALL my sweaters, the Despotic Queen must note my continued frustration with
Bailey’s insistence of only ever presenting two shoes per collection.
I’m
prepared to overlook the epic haute mess that was Bailey’s shearling lined boots
since the Doc Martin inspired lace-up military boots were on-the-money,
especially the wood grain outer soles.
In stark contrast (to Burberry) Dolce e Gabanna present so many shoes the tips of Imelda’s weave ache.
This
season Dominico and Stefano who celebrated their 20th anniversary of
menswear, presented a collection of gusseted round toe workmen boots and square
toe lace up dress shoes in greased and distressed leathers – a pleasant
juxtaposition to the velvet, heavy knits and thermal jodhpurs. The treated
leather, whilst interesting, did feel uninspired with McQueen presenting a
variation of this idea last season and YSL two seasons before that.
However,
catching HRH’s eye was a deceptively simple round toe cleated sole hiking boot.
A promising silhouette that’s been a circling trend for the past 3 seasons,
Dolce e Gabanna’s clever application of tire tread (as a trim) should push this
into the mainstream…or at the very least, into Imelda’s already full shoe
closet.
Bottega Veneta bought into the teddy boy trend (literally) with a collection of streamlined brothel creepers in patent, croc and polished leathers.











