Drawing inspiration from the works of Russian sculptor Naum Gabo, Flora Gill and Alexa Adams of Ohne Titel have once again collaborated with Imelda’s secret love Cesare Paciotti .
When I asked Stephen Courter (the third and somewhat secret member of Ohne Titel) how one collaborates with a genius like Paciotti, he responded “The collaboration came about when Cesare Paciotti reached out to us after our ss08 collection. Their team had seen our work and suggested working together. We were immediately interested as we have so much respect for Cesare Paciotti's long reputation for excellent craftsmanship”
‘dig-dig-dig’…I discovered this isn’t the first time my 'secret love' has worked with emerging talent. Paciotti has on-going affiliation with Istituto Europeo del Design in Italy were young designers receive his assistance to cultivate their talent.
Taking exclusively to the Despotic Queen, Paciotti revealed that he’s also worked with “Catherine Holstein, Christian Cota and Rubin Singer”. I asked Paciotti what motivated him to seek out Ohne Titel and offer the designers such an extraordinary opportunity? Pausing, the Italian Master considered my question before replying, “I’m drawn to forward-thinking and innovative designers, which Flora and Alexa are. Just as their creations aim to enhance a modern woman’s form while paying attention to the fine details, I strive to glamorise and empower a woman through shoes which are a perfect complement to her clothes”
SS09 saw Ohne Titel draw rave reviews from both blogsphere (we’re the only reviews who matter) and mainstream press. The collection was about ‘applying sculptural form to the body’; the designers were ‘inspired by transparent layers and body conscious lines’. All I'll say is that when Imelda’s petty pants are a little moist you know it’s a good collection.
Much like the
work of the late Naum Gabo, Alexa and Flora have sought to explore a new
frontier of footwear design by using non-traditional materials and techniques. My
eye was first drawn to the delicate hand woven silk vamps (Shoe of the Week).
At first, the shoes appeared to be part spider web - part dream catcher. In
fact the shoe is neither and all of those references, they’re subjective mini
pieces of wearable art.
In their dreamy seasonal palette of white, black, beige, celadon and pale grey, Alexa and Flora have designed an additional two styles. Both woven multi strap toe thongs and both have Imelda giddy with delight. Importantly, the shoes demonstrate the designer’s comprehension of commercial (read lucrative) footwear design.
Most young designers are prohibited from launching into the lucrative market until they’ve a) found a backer or b) they’re generating a high volume of sales. I asked Stephen if Paciotti’s mentorship included a full manufacturing deal, he responded, “The shoes will be sold as part of the Cesare Paciotti spring summer collection and will bear the Cesare Paciotti Label”. Courter’s reply raises a series of interesting questions about the benefits of collaborating with established designers.
Imelda’s not suggesting that Paciotti is doing anything untoward, and without being privy to any agreement my initial reaction was that if CP was intendeding to sell OT’s designs then the Designers would receive some form of financial remuneration. Don’t let this point mar what is clearly a mutually beneficial arrangement for all parties.
With so many designers perpetrating crimes against quality footwear design, fashion needs more designers like Paciotti who are confident in their own abilities to step up and work with the next generation of designers.
