Well Shod, Well Imformed

BACKWARD GOING FORWARD

It’s a quiet day in Milan, Just Cavalli was off (now on again), Emporio Armani never throws up anything of interest, Camilla isn’t collaborating with Missoni and Moschino Cheap and Chic is at 8pm. Minor distractions aside (being two days of exhaustive self indulgence) I’ve got a spare second to back track and cover off the last two days of London Fashion Week.

Summing up Giles’ A/W 09/10 collection, a message board user with the handle Miss Dalloway said, “This is one neurotic collection”. Deacon, who seems to have an ongoing problem with proportion, divided most fashion critics (and more importantly fashion fans) with his A/W 09/10 collection. Some fans pleaded that we look past the ‘theatrics’ of haggard models, busted up hair and Halloween make up and judge the collection on separates, while others like Miss Dalloway, spared the designer no mercy.

Collaborating again with the Red (soled) Baron, Christian Louboutin, Deacon’s fetishist inspired thigh high boots in suede, pony skin ankle boots and man style brogues hit on all the right trends. Deacon presented a broad spectrum of traditional winter colours including mushroom, pink, green, gold and bronze (metallic). 

OSSIE CLARK

At Ossie Clark, Avsh Alom Gur managed to successfully adapt current footwear trends while upholding the brand’s heritage. Platforms were concealed while heels were slightly shaped. Gur used suede and metallic leather but the real showstoppers were the python skin T-bars.

HOUSE OF HOLLAND

Imelda's with Kayne on this one "No comment!"

JOSH GOOT & RICHARD NICOLL

Focusing on the futuristic appeal of minimalism, Josh Goot’s collection was tight and razor sharp. There was a certain modish appeal to the Antipodean’s two toned over-the-ankle boots while his nubuck pumps had a certain Jil Sander reference.

Australian expat Nicoll’s opted out of the platform trend for almond toe ankle boots and pumps. The London based designer used a subtle palette of winter white, nude and a grayish silver patent leather.

At this stage of their careers I imagine that for both Goot and Nicoll, shoes are not their primary focus. Both designers continue to impress Imelda with the seamless transference of ideas from clothing into accessories and beg that someone step up and help them expand into the lucrative market.

JUST LAY BACK AND THINK OF MILAN

As I expected, the last two days of London Fashion Week didn’t churn out any unexpected surprises. Still that doesn’t excuse Imelda’s unforgivable downward spiral into the dark and unrewarding world of celebrity coverage…forgiveness is mandatory.

I’m leading with Josh Goot’s minimalist, nude toned platforms, not because I thought they were the final day’s highlight, but because if I didn’t ‘make-the-nice’ about a fellow Antipodean, the villagers would exile my despotic ass into the never-never, which for those not familiar with Australia is Bindi Irwin’s Australia Zoo. Goot’s aesthetic is, and always will be, minimal, and his interchangeable scuba ankle cuff was a stroke of genius.

I won’t go nuclear on Dame Viv, her main collection is still a week away…but fair suck of the sav…was a flat Perspex sandal the best she could design? I’m all for sustainable fashion but what’s the GO with recycling last season’s square toe boots? Anyhoo, I suppose ‘crazy-is-as-crazy-does’.

After last season’s uber cute slippers, I was expecting more from Armand Basi. I’d like to say that his snake print platform wedges loosened my panty girdle – I would. Commercial-yes, exciting-no.

Those Imeldette’s planning a trip into deep space (I know of two - The Seeker's off to Venus and Miss Karen's booked a one way trip to the Moon); may I suggest Alejandro Ingelmo’s angsty metallic platforms seen in Roksanda Ilincic’s show?

We’ve all had a snide chuckle about the House of Holland’s ohmage to all things 1991. I for one didn’t realize Aaron Spelling had authorised the archival of the wardrobe from Beverly Hills 90210 1.0 but from the look of ‘THAT’ dress (you know the one I’m talking about) he did and Henry Holland has raided it. UPDATE – I was on style.com looking for a picture of ‘that dress’ and I’ve just read that his influence REALLY was 90210…Imelda’s an effing ORACLE…bow down and give me your life savings.

Interestingly there was a cavernous disconnect between Holland’s clothing reference and his shoe reference. The zipper trimmed suede platforms are (for those of us old enough to remember) Prada Sport circa ‘97/98. Cranked up on a platform and given a lick of colour the reference isn’t so obvious but it’s there. While I’m not ready to teleport back to ’91 I could be convinced to take a quick trip back to ’97.